![]() I chose the series with maximum size, since it allows to reach optimum image resolution. That book contains several series of celestial (and terrestrial, too) gores for making globes of different size. The first thing I did was to scan the pages of the “Libro dei Globi”. I will keep you updated on the progress of the project…Īlmost two years already passed since I published my first (and last) post on “Remaking the Heavens”. And it will be a little bit different from the other globes I designed so far. Obviously, being a paper model designer, the globe will be entirely made of paper, therefore the technique I will use for making it will be completely different from the classical one. The title of the project could seem too ambitious, though what I would like to do is the modern version of the past common practise of coloring the b/w prints by hand, often according to the wishes of the buyer. ![]() The project “Remaking the Heavens” consists in a large celestial paper globe (50 cm diam.) illustrated with digitally re-colored Coronelli’s gores from the “Libro dei Globi”, edited in Venice in 1701. (Amsterdam) in 1969, from the original Coronelli’s prints published in Venice in 1701. I could not wait anymore! I bought it from Sequitur Books (USA) and now, that big book is on my desk. My research stopped two months ago, when I met online the “Libro dei Globi”, a collection of fac-simile gores edited by Theatrum Orbis Terrarum Ltd. Though they have good resolution, the scans were roughly converted in B/W files, and some of them are compromised by the book binding. Coronelli, …”, edited in Paris in 1782, at the Bibliotèque Nationale de France website. The best I found was a pdf version of the “Atlas Céleste, composé d’un globe de douze pieds de circonférence, du P. For long time I surfed the web in searching for hi-res digital files representing celestial (and terrestrial) gores by Venetian cartographer Vincenzo Coronelli (1650-1718).
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Ideally, I’d add a rotary pot on the dash, so I can brighten the LEDs for daytime use, and adjust thdir brightness for nighttime operation. the problem is, they’re powered from the 12v supply, which must remain 12v for the accessories they supply, so I need to dim the switches on the ground side. these are better, but still a bit too bright. The boat was inoperable at night, because the blazing blue switches messed up night vision and obscured everything in front of the boat (along with a very poorly placed anchor light, incorrectly wired so it comes on with the running lights – a separate problem scheduled for my next fix.)Īnyway, I just replaced 9 blue LED switches with red LED switches. ![]() I bought a boat last year, in which the prior owner had installed LED tipped toggle switches in VERY BRIGHT blue. I hope this helps you with your next LED lighting project, make sure to check out the great variety of switches, rocker switches, toggle switches we have to offer. SIXQJZML 10 Pcs AC 6A/250V 10A/125V 2 Solder Lug SPST On/Off Mini Boat Rocker Switch Car Auto Boat Round Rocker 2Pin Toggle SPST Switch. FREE Delivery on your first order of items shipped by Amazon. You can use two of our on/off/on switches, and wire them like this: 5Pcs On/Off Boat Rocker Switch 5Pcs 2 Pin Position Snap 12V 110V 250V QTEATAK. This switch also has a built-in LED that lights up when it’s in the on position, so if you’ve purchased one of these, below is a wiring diagram showing how you would go about wiring this particular rocker light switch, remember to pay careful attention to the markings on the pins:ĭo you want to control one light from two switches? Let’s say you have a large RV, and want to control your lights from a switch at the bedroom as well as a switch at the kitchen. Scion OEM style rocker switch wiring diagram Amber (LED lights up when switch is on).White (LED lights up when switch is on).Green (LED lights up when switch is on).Switches from Oznium Our rocker switches are available in: ![]() The life-gain options in a format should guide you while building a control deck. Life gain can be a great addition to a slower Limited deck as well, although you might not have quite as many appealing options at your disposal. Slow decks will be hard-pressed to succeed without it. Medium-speed decks benefit from it if they can find it (either main deck or sideboard). Aggro and combo decks can do without life gain. The slower the deck, the more you need life gain. The key is that going down to 3 life doesn’t necessarily mean that you’ll be forced to play ten or fifteen more turns of a game while you’re at 3 life. If you had to go down to a low life total, instead of gaining that life back, you could instead seek to combo off and go immediately to the next game. Even in games where it didn’t combo quickly, the possibility was always there. Splinter Twin, however, had a combo finish. It was traditionally built without access to life gain and was very successful even without it. Splinter Twin had many aspects of a control deck, and played many games as though it was a control deck. Let’s take, as an example, Splinter Twin from the pre-ban Modern format. There’s a lot of grey area in between the two. But every slow deck needs life gain if it wants to function the best it possibly can. Aggro decks, for example, couldn’t care less. Not every deck needs life gain to function. ![]() Loops or combos ( Thopter Foundry + Sword of the Meek, Syphon Life + Life from the Loam, Elixir of Immortality).Spells that gain you life while progressing your game plan ( Ojutai’s Command, Foul-Tongue Invocation, Lightning Helix, Sphinx’s Revelation).Lands that allow you to gain life ( Dismal Backwater, Shambling Vent, Pristine Talisman).Lifelink creatures, or creatures that gain you life when they enter the battlefield, especially if you have ways to recur them from your graveyard ( Batterskull, Kitchen Finks, Thragtusk, Kalitas, Traitor of Ghet).Instead, look for ways to build life gain into the structure of your deck. I’m not suggesting that you include Angel’s Mercy in your Constructed deck (although there are times when that might not be quite as crazy as it sounds). Structure your deck in such a way that your life total becomes a replenishable resource. Replenishable resources and non-replenishable resources are very different. If those cards are not present, then you’re paying a cost that you won’t be able to pay again. If you feel comfortable drawing into your Shambling Vents, Ojutai’s Commands, or Foul-Tongue Invocations as the game drags on, then you know you’ll be able to undo the damage eventually. In this example, it doesn’t necessarily matter whether your life gain cards are in your hand, only whether they’re in your deck. If you lose 3 life from this Siege Rhino, then you’ll paint yourself into a corner where you have to counter the next Siege Rhino, where you’ll have to be deathly afraid of creature lands, where you won’t be able to crack a fetchland without cringing, and where your grasp on the game will be precarious. But this is a play that you can probably only make if you have access to life gain in your deck. That way, you save Scatter to the Winds to protect you from a morphed Den Protector, a Gideon, Ally of Zendikar, or perhaps some wacky surprise haymaker that you’re not even thinking of. Your preference here should be to let Siege Rhino resolve, and then kill it with Murderous Cut. You’re at 9 life and your hand has Murderous Cut, Scatter to the Winds, and some card draw. ![]() Imagine that you’re beginning to take control against an Abzan deck. You might find yourself trying to use a hammer when you really need a screwdriver. If you build your deck without life gain, then you’re leaving one of your most important tools at home. It’s about finding the right tool for the right job as I discussed in my article here. Playing a control deck is about lining up your defensive cards against your opponent’s offensive cards. You’ll have to be prepared to deal with everything that hits the board immediately, no matter what it might be. You’ll need to hold up instant-speed removal forever against a deck with haste creatures or flash creatures. You’ll need to hold up Negate mana forever against a deck with burn spells. 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